Under the Lights at Goosefeather

From when it opened in the summer of 2019, I had Goosefeather near the top of my “must-try list.” And for good reason, actually, lots of reasons.

One, it’s owned by chef, restauranteur, and Top Chef contestant Dale Talde.

Two, it’s a modern, cheffy take on the cuisine from Hong Kong with aspects of dim sum, Cantonese food, and Chinese barbecue. Anything that’s an upgraded version of neighborhood takeout Chinese, I am HERE. FOR. IT.

And if that’s not enough, it’s located on the grounds of the Tarrytown House Estate’s King Mansion. The entire property is a beautiful scene.

It’s also apparently haunted. Named after railroad exec Thomas M. King, people say that his daughter-in-law Sybil still roams the halls in a white gown after she supposedly died there in 1955. Freaky stuff, but I kinda dig it.

Now that you’re totally creeped out…

I did eventually get to Goosefeather a year after it debuted during The Valley Table’s #TimeToDine promotion with giveaways to get people back into dining out. I meant to go sooner, but throw in work, life, and a global pandemic and that’s what happens. Feel me?

When restrictions loosened and restaurants did their best to create their best outdoor areas they could, Goosefeather’s has to be in the conversation for best setup in Westchester and Fairfield counties combined. It is, in one word: STUNNING. The backyard of King Mansion is lit up with a ton of string lights, there’s a fire pit in the middle of the space, a garden off to the side, and the mansion’s backdrop completes it. Toss in great weather and it’s a special setting.

At first, I had no intentions of writing about Goosefeather. I enjoyed it. The reason for this post is I got asked about it a lot. Almost too much. It got irritating.

My response was the same to everyone:

“The food and drinks were great.”

“…but, damn it was expensive!”

Cocktails—while also great—will cost you. But they don’t skimp on the booze, thank God. Each is well-crafted, like their take on a classic Manhattan called Like The Twilight (high proof bourbon, rye, digestifs Averna and Branca Menta, sweet vermouth, bitters). It’s a sipper; smooth upfront with a K.O. punch on the finish. It’d be ideal with a cigar on the side on a cool night.

Cruel Summer—because, fucking 2020, man—is another bourbon-based cocktail (with Cynar, Peychaud’s Bitters, lemon juice, and Chinese 5-spice) was a little lighter and brighter than I expected. I could groove on more than one.

For food, my friend Tara and I would’ve liked to maybe try more if we weren’t afraid of the check afterwards. Tara has been here a few times already, so she expected the damage. When the check arrived at the end, she turned away and remarked, “I don’t want to see it!”

Salads, small veggie plates, and “shareable” dim sum plates can rack up a lofty bill in a hurry. Four dry-aged beef potstickers will run you $16. But, geez, they’re delicious. Not doughy at all, perfectly pan seared, filled plenty with beef, and with a spicy horseradish mustard that’ll clear up the stuffiest sinuses, you can almost justify $4/per bite. Almost.

More justifiable was a six-piece of kung pao wings at $14. Goosefeather’s WANGS are crispy, sweet chili coated wingettes that stayed juicy and meaty on the inside. The shaved celery, crushed peanuts, and a homemade buttermilk dill ranch took a sports bar favorite and truly elevated it. These are the best fine dining wings I’ve had to date.

I passed on other carnivore faves like a half (or whole, if you want!) roasted duck or pork belly and a $20 lobster bao and instead rocked my wallet with a $29 dish of black pepper beef with tender charred onions and pungent holy basil, doused in a sweet, sour, salty, spicy brown sauce. Props for having some fried crunch on the beef’s exterior that held up when enveloped in that luxurious sauce, and still so tender that I was able to cut larger pieces in half with a little fork pressure. It’s a nice rendition of takeout food that I’d want again in a heartbeat. In fact, I’ll almost certainly get this again to share with the rest of the table on my next visit. And a next visit, there will be.

Yeah, yeah. Expensive. Blah, blah, blah. I got tired of writing it. You’re sick of hearing it.

I’ll leave you with this…

The name”Goosefeather” is derived from an ancient Chinese proverb encouraging the idea of meaningful gift giving. You’ll spend to eat here. Give yourself a gift once in a while. You deserve it.

49 E Sunnyside Lane; Tarrytown
914.829.5454; https://www.goosefeatherny.com/

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